Engine Update 3

The engine has been stripped down externally, all the parts media blasted and painted. As the outside of the car is loud I decided to be a bit more restrained with the engine colour scheme using a matt black and graphite grey two tone, the only orange parts so far are the fuel rails.

I stripped the original Lexus wiring loom to its bare neceasities and have begun rerouting and sleeving the loom completely. I can't go much further with that until I have the gearbox mounted and decided on the oil temperature, oil pressure and MAF sensor locations.

With regards to the gearbox, I have ordered the following:
1. Adapter plate - Ford TKO to Lexus bellhousing (SWR Motorsport)
2. Reducing sleeve to fit TKO pilot bush in 1UZ crank (SWR Motorsport)
3. Custom flywheel and clutch (TTV Racing)
4. Tilton 6102 concentric clutch slave cylinder (from Jegs in USA)
5. ARP flywheel bolts

The above should allow me to finally connect the engine to the gearbox and finish the wiring loom. Then I can cart the lot off up to GD so they can design the mounts to fit it in the chassis.

Normally you run the engine to help cure the paint but that will be a while away so had to improvise 

Loom being sleeved one sensor at a time

Individual sensor wires come together to progressively build the loom from front back

Very time consuming but worth the effort I think 

No More Bling

I never really wanted a Cobra with loads of shiny Chrome as I'm trying to build a modern alternative, but didn't think there was any other option for certain things such as the windscreen so just settled for it.

After recent discussions with fellow builders, I have decided I am going to go 'bling free' after all. The chrome/shiny bits I already have are:
- Windscreen frame and stanchions
- Fuel filler cap
- Headlight surrounds
- Wiper spindle ferrules
- Wiper arms and blades

The wiper arms and blades haven't been fitted so I will see if I can return them to GD and I'll buy black ones, I think Classic Mini ones fit.

I have made enquiries with a few local powder coaters and the consensus it that Chrome can be coated after being shot blasted to ensure good adhesion, and cheaper than I was expecting too.

I now needed to remove bits from the car, the headlight surround and wiper spindle ferrules just unbolt and the Aston filler cap needs a couple of roll pins knocking out but the tricky bit was the windscreen.

The powder coating process involves oven baking which isn't good for the rubber seals which meant the glass had to be removed and after speaking with Brasscraft (they make all the UK Cobra screens) I was assured it was possible.

The frame is made of two sections, the lower bit that sits across the scuttle and the rest. These are held together by 2 flat head screws at the bottom of each side. A sharp flat object needs to be run around between the seals and the glass, I used a 6" steel ruler. I then used a flat head screwdriver to prise the lower corners apart, I could then gradually ease the two sections apart.

The top frame is more difficult as it wraps around 3 side so there is more friction in the seals, I had to resort to a nylon faced mallet here! Whilst holding the glass, I lightly tapped the corner of the frame outwards each side, then upwards from the bottom.

This process was repeated gradually each side until I could pull the frame off the glass, thankfully with everything still in one piece. Now the seals can be removed for reuse when it all goes back together.

Two roll pins for the hinge and catch removed with a hammer and punch

Glass removing tools! 

This shows the two screw holes at the lower edge on each side. I'd already removed the lower frame before I remembered to take pictures. 

Prising the seal off the glass, a Stanley blade would probably have been better in hindsight. 

Two parts of the frame ready for the powder coaters 

Out of the mould

So the body has been slightly delayed due to one reason or another, however it's now out of the mould and looking fabulous (in my opinion). Hoping to collect it in the next couple of weeks.  

This is still inside under artificial lighting so looks slightly lighter than it actually is. 

Probably a closer colour representation. I love the stripes. 

Colour choices

So, I have decided on the kit and have booked a visit to the GD factory next weekend to meet the team and place my order.  Due to funding, I have chosen to carry out the build body first as it's the cheapest 'big bit' to get started. The GD manufacturing process produces extremely high quality finished gel coats which can be polished up to a high shine which can save £2-3k on painting.

This does mean that I have to make a big decision prior to ordering and have to choose from any solid RAL colour.  I have trawled Google images for inspiration and found a lot of blue with white/silver stripes, grey with silver stripes, black with white stripes and red with white stripes.  These colours seem to have been done to death; and as I'm not intending to build a classic replica, I decided to keep it understated and chose ORANGE with GREY stripes!

Looking at RAL colours on line is pointless as every colour looks different depending what website and screen you are viewing it on.  I bought a RAL colour fan chart, picked my favourite colours and got B&Q to colour match some sample pots.  I then painted some scraps of plywood with the two chosen oranges (RAL2001 & RAL2010) to see what these colours would look like on a bigger scale.  It sounds daft but it does make a difference seeing it in big rather than a small swatch of colour.

RAL2010 (signal orange) appeared too light so decided on RAL2001 (red orange).  I the painted some stripes in 6 different greys on the orange for comparison and finally chose RAL7022 (umbra grey).  Below is how they look together on ply wood, only time will tell how they will look on the car.

After speaking with Andy from GD, I asked whether the stripes could be made in carbon fibre rather than grey and was delighted to hear that; although "tricky", it was not impossible. 

I have recently received a sample panel which shows the orange and carbon together (see attached photo) which I rather like, the black is there for reference.  The carbin in the sample is casually laid and will be at 45°for maximum  visual impact.